Winterizing. A sad fact for many northerners.
Unfortunately, for many northerners, winterizing a motorcycle is a hard fact they have to face. Although riding a bike on ice has been done before, most of us don’t want to try it. Parking a bike under a tree, or deep in a shed without properly preparing the bike will most likely result in a dead bike come springtime. Although dead doesn’t necessary mean dead forever, who really wants to spend the first few days of warm, spring weather trying to get their bike running? There is no way to guarantee a running bike in the spring, but following these basic tips will sure help your odds.

1. Decide where you are going to store you bike for the winter. In a garage or covered location, away from the harsh, winter elements is always best. If you don’t have a garage, ask your biker friends if they have extra space in their garages, or check your local dealership to see if they offer winter storage.

2. Change the oil and filter. While you are at it, now would be a good time to do any of the maintenance that you may have been neglecting during the riding season.

3. Fill your fuel tank with gas and then add a fuel stabilizer/treatment designed for storing gas.

4. Connect your battery to a battery tender.

5. Fill the tires to the maximum recommended air pressure.

6. Clean and wax the bike thoroughly. Spray a light coat of oil, such as WD40 in the inside of your exhaust and any other areas that are prone to rust.

7. Park the bike on a layer of plywood or jack it up off the ground.

8. Cover the bike with a motorcycle cover.

If you are extra particular, there are more things that can be done. A few clicks on google will give you even more ideas, but from my experience this has been sufficient. Now if only there were proper instructions on how to winterize a motorcyclist.

Want to install front lights on your 2005 Nomad 1600?
I wanted some front lights on my Nomad, but I didn't want a light bar mainly because I didn't want to relocate my blinkers. Click here for an instructional page explaining what I did. On 4/10/2006, I took the lights off due to the bulbs burning out prematurely. It appears that since there is no shock absorption for the lights from the forks, the bulbs tend to burn out frequently.

10/17/2006 - Looks like the problem may be solved. Here are two emails I've received concerning the bulbs burning out prematurely:

Trip,
I purchased the same lighting for the front of my Nomad as you and have run into the same issue. Lights burning out. I contacted Custom World International, the manufacturer, and they, without question, are sending out the fix for this issue. They said they are replacing the bulbs with a sealed beam unit. I just spoke with Roger today. Their number for CWI it is 1-888-711-6686. Ask for Richard or Roger. Very nice people. - Vin

Trip, FYI -
Custom World International has agreed to replace the original lights in the Value Accessories billet light bar for the Nomad with a sealed beam unit at no charge. If you call Custom World Intl at 1-888-711-6686 and talk with either Richard or Roger and give them your bike model and let them know that you have had the problem with the bulbs burning out, they will ask that you email your name and address to: richard@cw-intl.com. They are doing this at no charge to the customer. - Tommy

 

Install Kuryakyn Bullet lights on the front of your Nomad:
Not having any luck with the previous front lights, I decided to install some Kuryakyn Silver Bullet lights. Click here for an instructional page explaining what I did.

Tank Rust Prevention: To help prevent rust forming in your fuel tank, get into the habit of filling up your tank before storing your bike in the garage.

Cleaning: Simple Green is a good cleaning product that can be found at any auto store. Just spray it on and wash it off to get your Nomad totally clean from dirt and grime. Use a toothbrush to clean those hard to get to areas. Also, feel free to use a Q-Tip for cleaning delicate areas of your bike.

Tire Pressure: Check your tire pressure often. A tire that is low on pressure can wear out prematurely and cause problems in handling. Check your tire pressure especially if you are taking a trip to the mountains or where the elevation is a lot higher. And, don't forget to check your pressure when you get back.

Install a windshield bag at the back of your Nomad? That's right. Between the back seat and license plate is an area perfectly suited for a windshield bag. All you need is about 15 minutes, metric wrenches and a windshield bag and you've got a nicely tucked-away storage compartment at the back of your Nomad. Just take your license plate off and the plastic holder that has the three bolts running through it. Carefully drill a hole at the back of the windshield bag to allow the top bolt to go through. Slip the bolt through the license holder into the back of the bag and bolt on. You can secure the bag with the top bolt or all three bolts. Once done, you have an extra storage compartment that's hidden away behind your seat and below your sissy bar.

Winter Suggestion: If in the winter, you find yourself not riding your bike as often as you would like, keep your battery and engine in good running order by starting up your bike once every two weeks in the wintertime. Long periods of time sitting in the garage can make a battery weak and possibly gunk up the carbs. Just start up your bike once every two weeks and let it run for about 15 minutes or until the cooling fan comes on.

15 minutes time once every 2 weeks isn't enough time to recharge the power taken from the battery to start the bike once. Also that isn't enough time to cook off the water made from condensaion, and in effect will add water to the engine/tranny oil, where it will enable the acids as blowby to become sulfuric acid which loves to eat alloy engines and babbit bearing material.

Due to my living conditions my bike gets stored in a cold trailer and in NH it gets really cold. I do alot more that most people would have to, and for it my 06 Nomad looks new still.

What comes in to stay in the cellar is the seat vinals and the battery. That battery stays on a autofloat / antisulfaction pulse charger all winter. The engine is never started all winter, but is put away with new oil in the engine.

Since the weather warms and cools a lot in spring before I can get the bike out and on the road I see water made externally on my bike in any given year. Water is made inside the engine gase and the gas tank this way, but not very much.

The water is only made on inner surfaces that are exposed to air, not fluids. Since no fluids are moving the and the water is heavier than gasoline and or oil it settles to the bottom of respective area containers.

I add stable to the gas, which works and this is the marine grade stable. This I believe has a good effect to mix water with the gas, so it won't pool in the low spots in the tank. This gas is burned out in Spring and new fresh gas is added for the new season.

The water in new engine oil gathers in low spots too, but my first ride of the season is over 45 minutes and that' enough time to boil water in oil and turn it to steam and then it gets breathed thru the engine breather, and is blown out as steam in the mufflers.

My OEM Battery at rest after a ride still shows 12.8 volts not on the charger. In fact at first shut down the voltmeter reads 13.33 dcv, and will slowly settle to be 12.8 if I don't hook the charger up before the next morning. Basicly my battery is as new.

Because winter is long and colder in NH I also wash and wax the bike at winter storage, and don't wipe off the white dry wax. I pull the plugs and fog the engine, and also fog the mufflers inside and the throttle body. I put the intake parts in a baggie, and stuff rags in the TB and up the mufflers to keep possible rodents out.

All the chrome is waxed and left to dry as well. In spring I re-do that waxing once to wet the dried on wax and it makes the bike look new. I do more than that but it's outside what's normal. IMO any bike battery not in use for longer than parked for a days work, should be on a auto float charger rated at no more than 1.5 AMPs. - MacMac

Want a better smelling Helmet? There are a myriad of things you can spray into your helmet to make it smell better, but here's something you can do that is easy, safe and will keep your helmet smelling fresh all the time. Fabric softener sheets...You know, those little sheets your wife puts in the dryer to help your clothes to be soft and smell fresh. One brand is called Bounce. Just take a couple of sheets straight out of the box and place them inside your helmet while it's being stored. When you ride, take them out and when you store your helmet, put them in. It's that simple. Your helmet will smell fresh all the time.

Want to get rid of those small, pesky scratches on your helmet shield? Ever found yourself out on the road and noticed some small scratches on your helmet shield. Drives you crazy sometimes doesn't it? Well, here's something that might help take the scratches out...toothpaste. Yes, that white, pastie stuff you bring along to brush your teeth with. Toothpaste rubbed on a helmet shield can take out all kinds of small scratches. Just use a dry, cotton cloth and have a little patience.

Waco Bill's Heel Rest Project. Ever experienced a new kind of leg cramp? Waco Bill has and he has come up with a likely fix for it. Click here to read about it.

Tachometer, Clock and Volt meter for a Nomad. Jan Talmon of the Netherlands has installed a really slick dashboard that includes not only a tachometer, but features a clock and a volt meter. This dash fits right on top of the handlebar mount. After writing to Jan to find out where to buy and cost, this is his response:

Hey Trip, The dashboard is handcrafted by an old ironworker, he passed away earlier this year, he made a large number of dashboards for my dealer Motorshop De Mammoet. The dashboard is originally designed for the Nomad 1500, on the 1600 is standard not enough space between the handlebars and the windscreen, I moved my screen about one inch to the front of the bike, I designed and made a pair of stainless steel brackets to realise that.(see the pic) The gauges are from NOVA-MMB Messtechnik GmbH & Co. KG but are included in the set. The dashboard is available at: http://www.motorshopdemammoet.com/index.htm (see the end of the homepage for a pic)
Ask Marianne, she is very helpful!
Greetz,
Jan
PS...the link to NOVA-MMB Messetechik:
http://www.nova-mmb.com/novammb.asp?NaviID=1_2_11_1&LNG_ID=DE&Konf_ID=0

The pic on the left is of the spacer Jan used to allow room for the gauges.

Various Tips by Wayne:

Have you ever looked at the left side of the NOMAD and see that ugly motor mount nut, blackened back at you? If you have installed Kuryakyn grips, and asked for the old grips back, take that nice shiny end piece, place it over the nut, and tap it with a rubber or nylon malet. It makes it look so much nicer. (More chrome, more chrome, more chrome!) Of course, you could always buy a cover-up from Kawasaki for $29.95.

For you veterans (and non-veterans who are inclined) Get a POW/MIA patch. Spray the front side of the patch with Scotch Guard, twice, once every 12-24 hours (let it dry between coats) Buy some 3m automotive trim mounting tape at your local automotive store. Cut strips to fit around the back border of the patch and some strips (I used an X pattern) in the middle of the patch. Pull the backing off the tape and center it on the rear fender below the tail light. (I have the red and yellow one on my NAD.)

Do you have a favorite 5" medal, door knocker, or whatever? I do. It's the Eagle, Globe and Anchor made of brass. (Have to keep shining it though) I drilled a hole in the middle, got an 8mm hex bolt from my favorite Nuts and Bolts shop (Stainless steel) 1½" long. Took of the right air cover, placed the Eagle, Globe, and Anchor, and bolted it back on. I used a piece of 1/4" pvc as a spacer between the globe and cover to keep the bolt from acting as a wheel puller. You do not have to have much pressure to hold that cover on. If you tighten it to tight you can pull the anchor out and then you have to glue it back in or find another interior anchor.

HYDRATE, HYDRATE, HYDRATE. It's summer and you need to keep hydrated. The only "cup holder" that I found that would not interfer with the cowling when mounted to the handle bar was the one sold at www.barefootwillies.com


Various Tips by Nomad Riders:

Subject: Nomad Installs
Name: Michael T. DeFrank
Email: mdefrank@chambersburgpolice.com
Information: I ride an 04 Nomad fi. I changed the air filter system from stock to K&N on the right side only. So far the machine is running great without a Power Commander. If your going to try this modification, drive it for a while before purchasing the Commander or some other brand.

Subject: Nomad Installs
Name: True Spirit
Email: ehhaines@ifox.com
Information: When I lost a bulb in my CWI lights, I went down to the auto parts store and bought a set of 4 1/2" #4411 sealed beams and installed them in place of the bulbs. I think that I had to change the ends of the wires to connect to the sealed beams, but that was about it. About five bucks each. They have been on the bike for three years and 30,000 miles, and no problems.

Subject: Nomad Install
Name: Daniel E. Redmon
Email: deredmon@highland.net
Information: If any one installs a Hoppe Quadzilla and need's larger lowers, Sid Finley of Edmonds Enterprises made me a set that fit the curve of my Quadzilla perfectly so he has the template. For them to work, you have to move your Cobra Light Bar forward about and inch and a 1/2 if you have one. Ride safe, Dano

Subject: Nomad Windshield
Name: Jonathan "Madkaw" Larsen
Email: larsenjt@optonline.net
Information: I've had the same problem with buffeting and found it acceptable to use the rule of thumb for wind shield height adjustment. Having a friend that knows how to use the smart end of a ruler is a must! Sit your butt in the seat and find your comfortable riding position. Then have a friend measure from the ground up to your nose height. Adjust the top of your windshield to that height and the filler shield to the lowest setting without hitting the headlight bucket. You should be set to ride in comfort. Some say that larger windshield lowers are also good for stopping this problem.

Subject: Nomad Installs
Name: Dennis (Doc) Tooley
Email: dogdoc_77@yahoo.com
Information: If anybody owns a 2005 Nomad 1600cc FI and adds a Cobra light bar, then none of the after market lowers (larger) will fit so far. Sid Finley is working on some to fit. By the way the Cobra bar looks awesome too.

Subject: Nomad Installs
Name: Brad Davison
Email: rcmedic@zianet.com
Information: I installed the Cobra Lightbar from Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse PN# 08-0664 at $215. The problem was that after I installed the fairing, might lights on the lightbar could not be adjusted up enogh to point down the road without hitting the fairing (The Bullet/Tear drop housing). The fix for me was the offset exhaust brackets which work quite nicely. Pictures will follow on my website shortly. J&P Cycles PN# 4400285 Chrome Exhaust Strap Bracket at $8.99 each X 2

For the Nomad 1600 are not many options in the aftermarket for a nice sharp looking radiatorcover, so I decided to let my O.E.M.cover chromed.

Here by is the result!

I get from Bob (Motorshop De Mammoet, my local dealer here in the Netherlands) a second stock cover for free, for if there goes anything wrong with mine.

The chroming costs are € 40,00 so I think that is in USA dollars 57,00 or something.

Greetz, Jan

Subject: Nomad Installs
Name: Bob Shumpert
Email: lrhunter@comcast.net
Information: I wanted to do something different to the rear of my nomad. actually, I wanted to mount lights in the saddlebags but, I thought "geeze" if I make one wrong cut, I`ve really cost my self big $$ so, I had some chrome pieces laying around then I came up with the idea to make my own tail light bar using the lights I`d bought. I was pleased with the results and I think they kinda flow with the hard bags.

Subject: Crankcase Breather for 1500 & 1600 Nomad
Parts needed:
- Buy a Drag Specialties Chrome Crankscase Breather filter (3/8") with mounting base (I purchased mine at the local Harley store for $15.95, but it can also be bought at J&P and possibly Kuryakyn. Drag Specialties Part No. DS289515 - website: http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/8/71/5915611 )
- Buy about 4 feet of 7/16" ID rubber hose (you won't use it all, but it's best to have enough than too little) The base of the engine where you'll attach one end of the hose is 1/2" ID. The new filter is 3/8" ID. Buying 7/16" hose will allow you to use for both ends.
- Buy about 3-4 metal clamps
- Buy something to plug the end of the original crankcase hose, must be 1/2" ID. Metal or plastic plug of some sort.

Total cost is about $25.00. Takes about 15-20 minutes of your time.

I attached the filter base at the top of the right engine guard. I had to drill out the hole to a bigger diameter so that the bolt could go through. The bolt is long enough to tighten with the base on it.

I took the old hose off the spicket that comes out from the bottom of the front of the engine and plugged it with a 1/2" metal pin that I had and clamped it. By sealing off this end of the original hose, I don't have to do anything to the air breather end. This way, if I ever wanted to go back to the original setup, I can very easily.

I then placed the new 7/16" hose on the spicket and clamped it. I secured the old hose to the new hose with plastic ties. That way the old hose won't flop around. I then ran the new hose to the chrome mount on the right side of the bike and cut to the desired length. Then, took the new filter and secured and clamped.

Since the filter is elevated from the engine spicket, any oil that gets into the hose while riding, should drain back down into the engine. It is anticipated that no oil will get in the filter itself, due to the fact that there is no vacuum pulling the oil up the hose, like there was when connected to the air cleaner housing.














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